Kelly Braid has come out with a new ebook called "Purrfectly Trained Cat". Over the next few days she will share with us some or her secrets.
Today we are going to learn how to train our cat to sit down. This
is a relatively easy behavior to teach your cat and it will amaze
numerous people. Cats are much more capable than most people think!
It is a good idea to first teach your cat how to come every time
you call her by following the directions at the bottom third of
this page:
http://clicks.aweber.com/y/ct/?l=MrFWx&m=1lY6rapV_dVKWi&b=ktseHAoJCtPhv6vtg2UbFQ.
It is also good to remember that your cat will learn much quicker using both visual and verbal commands. Now have a handful of her favorite treats, and you're ready to begin.
1. Have your cat come.
2. Hold a treat between your middle finger and thumb with your
palm facing down and your index finger pointing up. When she
arrives, bring the treat slightly above her head right between
her eyes. Doing so will make your cat tilt her head back so
she can keep an eye on it. Every time a cat does this, she
will automatically sit down.
3. As your cat is sitting down, say "Sarah, sit!" which of
course, is the verbal command for this trick. Also bring your
index finger down towards her back end, so it is pointing
towards the floor. Cats do learn how to connect the directive
with the action of sitting and will learn to sit every time
you want her to.
4. Once your cat's bottom reaches the ground, praise her. It is
essential for you to time it accurately.
5. Give your cat a food treat once you have praised.
Repeat the same procedure several times this session and over the coming weeks until she is comfortable enough with what you expect from her. Once she is capable of sitting down on your command, continue to give food treats periodically.
Tomorrow we will talk about marking and a few fixes for it.
Until then, enjoy teaching your cat her new trick!
Chat soon,
Kelly Braid
Kelly is a cat lover. She lives in Vancouver, Canada and spends
much of her spare time helping others to live more harmoniously
with their cats. Her book "Purrfectly Trained Cat-Teach Your Cat to
Do What YOU Want" teaches cat owners everything they need to know
to live happily and harmoniously with their cat.
Purrfectly Trained Cat
Showing posts with label cat training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cat training. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Training Your Cat- Scratching
Kelly Braid has come out with a new ebook called "Purrfectly Trained Cat". Over the next few days she will share with us some or her secrets.
Today, I want to talk about why cats scratch, and how you can redirect the scratching to more appropriate objects.
Cats scratch because they need to. It's an instinctive behavior and we cannot stop it from happening. Your cat scratches for three reasons:
- To mark his territory-not only leaving visible marks but more
importantly, his scent from the glands in his paws. This scent
although indiscernible to us, is very distinctive to other animals
and marks the area as his.
- Exercise-to sharpen his claws so he can defend himself, as well
as stretch and flex his body.
- Pleasure-it just feels good
It is important to find objects that are appealing for your cat to scratch to draw him away from things like your furniture. First, you need to check out what he is scratching now. Look at the texture and sturdiness of the object and then try to replicate it.
Examples of things cats like to scratch include corrugated cardboard, carpeting, or even a chunk of a tree. It is also important to make sure the new scratching post is sturdy and has a stable base. If it falls loudly to the floor or on your cat, it will be worthless.
The new scratching post must now be placed next to object he previously scratched.
The next step is to make the old objects undesirable to him. This may involve covering the areas with things like aluminum foil, plastic, sandpaper, double sided tape, or plastic carpet runner with the pointy side facing out.
Now you will begin to gradually move the new scratching post to an area more suitable to you, but keep in mind it has to be somewhere kitty frequents as well. Putting it near where he sleeps is a great idea as he will always scratch shortly after waking up. If you put the post somewhere he rarely goes, he will return to the old object as soon its available.
After a few weeks, you can start removing the undesirable objects that are covering his former scratching areas. Remove one at a time and wait a few days to see how he does. If he goes back to the old object, just recover it for a bit longer as you are going to fast for him.
A few tricks to get him to use the new post include rubbing catnip on it or pulling a string toy over it to get him used to playing with it.
If you don't follow these vital (but easy) steps, you'll continue to get the same results...more shredded furniture and more spending money.
If you use the easy methods laid out for you, both you and your cat will live a much happier more harmonious life together.
Period.
And that's not just a promise, it's a guarantee.
In fact, try out the methods in my eBook for sixty days.
If your cat isn't the best behaved cat in the neighborhood, just let me know and I'll give you ALL of your money back.
And YOU CAN KEEP THE ENTIRE EBOOK FOR FREE.
No tricks, no gimmicks, no B.S.
If you're serious about keeping your cat happy....and fixing his bad behaviors for good ones, then you'll want to put the information in the eBook to work for you right now.
Kelly Braid
Purrfectly Trained Cat
Today, I want to talk about why cats scratch, and how you can redirect the scratching to more appropriate objects.
Cats scratch because they need to. It's an instinctive behavior and we cannot stop it from happening. Your cat scratches for three reasons:
- To mark his territory-not only leaving visible marks but more
importantly, his scent from the glands in his paws. This scent
although indiscernible to us, is very distinctive to other animals
and marks the area as his.
- Exercise-to sharpen his claws so he can defend himself, as well
as stretch and flex his body.
- Pleasure-it just feels good
It is important to find objects that are appealing for your cat to scratch to draw him away from things like your furniture. First, you need to check out what he is scratching now. Look at the texture and sturdiness of the object and then try to replicate it.
Examples of things cats like to scratch include corrugated cardboard, carpeting, or even a chunk of a tree. It is also important to make sure the new scratching post is sturdy and has a stable base. If it falls loudly to the floor or on your cat, it will be worthless.
The new scratching post must now be placed next to object he previously scratched.
The next step is to make the old objects undesirable to him. This may involve covering the areas with things like aluminum foil, plastic, sandpaper, double sided tape, or plastic carpet runner with the pointy side facing out.
Now you will begin to gradually move the new scratching post to an area more suitable to you, but keep in mind it has to be somewhere kitty frequents as well. Putting it near where he sleeps is a great idea as he will always scratch shortly after waking up. If you put the post somewhere he rarely goes, he will return to the old object as soon its available.
After a few weeks, you can start removing the undesirable objects that are covering his former scratching areas. Remove one at a time and wait a few days to see how he does. If he goes back to the old object, just recover it for a bit longer as you are going to fast for him.
A few tricks to get him to use the new post include rubbing catnip on it or pulling a string toy over it to get him used to playing with it.
If you don't follow these vital (but easy) steps, you'll continue to get the same results...more shredded furniture and more spending money.
If you use the easy methods laid out for you, both you and your cat will live a much happier more harmonious life together.
Period.
And that's not just a promise, it's a guarantee.
In fact, try out the methods in my eBook for sixty days.
If your cat isn't the best behaved cat in the neighborhood, just let me know and I'll give you ALL of your money back.
And YOU CAN KEEP THE ENTIRE EBOOK FOR FREE.
No tricks, no gimmicks, no B.S.
If you're serious about keeping your cat happy....and fixing his bad behaviors for good ones, then you'll want to put the information in the eBook to work for you right now.
Kelly Braid
Purrfectly Trained Cat
Monday, June 1, 2009
Train Your Cat - Does He Smell Different?
Kelly Braid has come out with a new ebook called "Purrfectly Trained Cat". Over the next few days she will share with us some or her secrets.
Today, I'm going to talk about a multi-cat household where one cat has been gone from the house for a period of time, usually to the vet, and the possible negative interaction between your cats upon his return.
This is an issue for many cat owners and they have no idea why the cat who has remained at home is behaving the way he is. The home cat will usually hiss, growl and sometimes try to fight with the cat that has been gone. He will treat the away cat as he would any strange cat that has entered his domain, not like his fellow housemate who he has lived with in harmony for years. The away cat will then hiss and growl to defend himself, and possibly start a fight.
As you know, cats rely more on their sense of smell than anything else. When the away cat returns, she smells different. The home cat will take one sniff and know without a doubt that this new cat does not belong in his territory. Then he will start hissing and fighting to defend his territory.
Now what do you do? You start from the beginning. If you allow them to fight at this point, their relationship may never fully recover. It is imperative that you separate the two cats.
When they are in separate rooms, take a towel or small stuffed animal and rub it on the small triangular, bald patch between the eye and ear of away cat and put it where home cat sleeps. Do the same rubbing with home cat and put the object with the away cat's sleeping area. The reason for this is because each cat's pheromones are exceptionally strong on this area of the cat. Both cats can then become used to the scent of the other. Try putting one cat in a room with a closed door, and allow the cats to acknowledge and smell the other through the opening at the bottom of the door.
When away cat has had a chance to clean himself and remove some of the vet smell, try reintroducing them, slowly. If there is still tension, separate them again. Sometimes this smell will take a few days to dissipate. Also, if away cat is wearing a cone, the smell will continue to be on her as she can't clean herself and remove the scent.
If the aggression is still evident after a week or more, the best option is to buy a facial pheromone like Feliway. This can be sprayed on a towel and after it has dried, wipe the towel on each. This synthetic facial pheromone will end the anger and have a calming affect on both cats.
Kelly Braid
Kelly is a cat lover. She lives in Vancouver, Canada and spends much of her spare time helping others to live more harmoniously with their cats. Her book "Purrfectly Trained Cat-Teach Your Cat to Do What YOU Want" teaches cat owners everything they need to know to live happily and harmoniously with their cat.
Today, I'm going to talk about a multi-cat household where one cat has been gone from the house for a period of time, usually to the vet, and the possible negative interaction between your cats upon his return.
This is an issue for many cat owners and they have no idea why the cat who has remained at home is behaving the way he is. The home cat will usually hiss, growl and sometimes try to fight with the cat that has been gone. He will treat the away cat as he would any strange cat that has entered his domain, not like his fellow housemate who he has lived with in harmony for years. The away cat will then hiss and growl to defend himself, and possibly start a fight.
As you know, cats rely more on their sense of smell than anything else. When the away cat returns, she smells different. The home cat will take one sniff and know without a doubt that this new cat does not belong in his territory. Then he will start hissing and fighting to defend his territory.
Now what do you do? You start from the beginning. If you allow them to fight at this point, their relationship may never fully recover. It is imperative that you separate the two cats.
When they are in separate rooms, take a towel or small stuffed animal and rub it on the small triangular, bald patch between the eye and ear of away cat and put it where home cat sleeps. Do the same rubbing with home cat and put the object with the away cat's sleeping area. The reason for this is because each cat's pheromones are exceptionally strong on this area of the cat. Both cats can then become used to the scent of the other. Try putting one cat in a room with a closed door, and allow the cats to acknowledge and smell the other through the opening at the bottom of the door.
When away cat has had a chance to clean himself and remove some of the vet smell, try reintroducing them, slowly. If there is still tension, separate them again. Sometimes this smell will take a few days to dissipate. Also, if away cat is wearing a cone, the smell will continue to be on her as she can't clean herself and remove the scent.
If the aggression is still evident after a week or more, the best option is to buy a facial pheromone like Feliway. This can be sprayed on a towel and after it has dried, wipe the towel on each. This synthetic facial pheromone will end the anger and have a calming affect on both cats.
Kelly Braid
Kelly is a cat lover. She lives in Vancouver, Canada and spends much of her spare time helping others to live more harmoniously with their cats. Her book "Purrfectly Trained Cat-Teach Your Cat to Do What YOU Want" teaches cat owners everything they need to know to live happily and harmoniously with their cat.
Saturday, May 30, 2009
How to Train Your Cat
Kelly Braid has come out with a new ebook called "Purrfectly Trained Cat". Over the next few days sshe will share with us some or her secrets.
Training your cat can be easy and fun...if you know the right way to do it.
Think back to when you first brought your little bundle of joy home. Did you have visions of him curled up in your lap, happily purring and behaving himself?
Believe it or not, that cat does exist. With just a little help from you, he can be the cat you always wanted.
You can learn more about that in my new ebook:
It reveals my entire cat training system and you might be interested in how it works.
It's not about:
1. Yelling and screaming to get him to change
2. Spending hours each day trying to fix his problems
3. Spending a lot of money on a cat behavior specialist
Here's what it IS about:
1. Learning steps you can take to keep you cat off your tables
and counters
2. Training him fun tricks that most people think only dogs can do
3. Keeping his claws off of your furniture and on his scratching
post
4. How to keep him away from your houseplants
5. Keeping his teeth away from you
6. Fixing litter box problems once and for all
7. Enjoying your cat and having fun with him
The reason it's so effective is because it's based on learning why your cat is behaving the way he is and how to use positive reinforcement to get him to do what you want him to do. This will keep him from becoming afraid of you and get him to WANT to do things to get a reward.
ALWAYS use positive reinforcement such as play time, cuddles, treats or petting. Physical punishment will not work! Many errors are made with cats because humans think they will respond like dogs. Dogs are pack animals and cats are not. With dogs, you can take advantage of this mentality by positioning yourself as the pack leader. Cats on the other hand, only form social groups by necessity and their organization depends on acknowledging territory as opposed to a leader.
Using physical punishment as a way to train your cat will only cause your cat to become afraid or aggressive, sometimes towards you or sometimes redirected towards the object you are trying to keep him from. For example, swatting your cat each time he approaches your new baby will generally cause him to become aggressive towards the baby. Instead, your cat should be allowed the opportunity to sniff the baby and rub up against its car seat or carrier, thus marking it as his.
The old story we have all heard of a cat smothering a baby in its crib is just an urban legend. Your cat is just curious! Allow him the opportunity to check out the baby, and then redirect his attention to something else and praise him. This is your best course of action.
Another problem with using physical punishment is that it will only encourage your cat to stop the bad behavior when you are present. He will learn quite quickly that the behavior can be performed when you are not around as he knows that no punishment will be forthcoming.
Tomorrow, I'll provide some tips you can use to stop excessive vocalization.
Kelly Braid
"Purrfectly Trained Cat"
Training your cat can be easy and fun...if you know the right way to do it.
Think back to when you first brought your little bundle of joy home. Did you have visions of him curled up in your lap, happily purring and behaving himself?
Believe it or not, that cat does exist. With just a little help from you, he can be the cat you always wanted.
You can learn more about that in my new ebook:
It reveals my entire cat training system and you might be interested in how it works.
It's not about:
1. Yelling and screaming to get him to change
2. Spending hours each day trying to fix his problems
3. Spending a lot of money on a cat behavior specialist
Here's what it IS about:
1. Learning steps you can take to keep you cat off your tables
and counters
2. Training him fun tricks that most people think only dogs can do
3. Keeping his claws off of your furniture and on his scratching
post
4. How to keep him away from your houseplants
5. Keeping his teeth away from you
6. Fixing litter box problems once and for all
7. Enjoying your cat and having fun with him
The reason it's so effective is because it's based on learning why your cat is behaving the way he is and how to use positive reinforcement to get him to do what you want him to do. This will keep him from becoming afraid of you and get him to WANT to do things to get a reward.
ALWAYS use positive reinforcement such as play time, cuddles, treats or petting. Physical punishment will not work! Many errors are made with cats because humans think they will respond like dogs. Dogs are pack animals and cats are not. With dogs, you can take advantage of this mentality by positioning yourself as the pack leader. Cats on the other hand, only form social groups by necessity and their organization depends on acknowledging territory as opposed to a leader.
Using physical punishment as a way to train your cat will only cause your cat to become afraid or aggressive, sometimes towards you or sometimes redirected towards the object you are trying to keep him from. For example, swatting your cat each time he approaches your new baby will generally cause him to become aggressive towards the baby. Instead, your cat should be allowed the opportunity to sniff the baby and rub up against its car seat or carrier, thus marking it as his.
The old story we have all heard of a cat smothering a baby in its crib is just an urban legend. Your cat is just curious! Allow him the opportunity to check out the baby, and then redirect his attention to something else and praise him. This is your best course of action.
Another problem with using physical punishment is that it will only encourage your cat to stop the bad behavior when you are present. He will learn quite quickly that the behavior can be performed when you are not around as he knows that no punishment will be forthcoming.
Tomorrow, I'll provide some tips you can use to stop excessive vocalization.
Kelly Braid
"Purrfectly Trained Cat"
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
